Hair Types and Required Specifi c Ingredients for Conditioning

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H:ir TyH>s :Fd R>quir>d SH>ciS c IFgr>di>Fts ?Gr CGFditiGFiFg Tr>:tm>Fts 9 H:ir TyH>s :Fd R>quir>d SH>ciS c IFgr>di>Fts ?Gr CGFditiGFiFg Tr>:tm>Fts An emerging market trend is to differentiate hair care products by specib c hair type, for example for b ne hair, for colored hair or for grey/white hair. With regard to this we differentiated the hair types and their special needs for conditioning improvement. The main tasks were to deb ne the performance criteria and identify the most suitable conditioning additive for a particular need.

1. GlGb:l H:ir TyH>s For the selection of the right product, a distinction has b rst to be made between the various hair types. Hair can be differe ntiated according to hair diameter into b ne (thin), medium and thick hair.

The mean b ber diameter of human scalp hair is 9 3 8 9 c ¼ m [ 8]. By treating the hair with different cosmetic or chemical treatments or by natural changes (hair becomes grey), the quality of t he hair is altered. Figure 8 details the various hair types, which can be differentiated for their specib c hair care needs.

Figure 8: Global hair types Hair Quality based on chemical treatment Hair Fiber Diameter ... more. less.

or natural change " virgin (= not altered) Fine/thin " permed ( 9 3 b ¼ m) " dyed " virgin " grey/white Medium (Caucasian) " permed ( c 7 3 7 ¼ m) " dyed straight " virgin, grey/white (Asian) " permed " dyed curly " virgin, grey/white Thick/coarse (South American/Mediterranian) " straightened ( 8 3 8 9 c ¼ m) " dyed curly " virgin, grey/white ( African) " straightened " dyed a TAiF/S F> :Fd m>dium A:ir Thin/b ne and medium hair types are both represented by the Caucasian type, which is the most common hair type in Europe. The mean diameter of adult Caucasian hair diameter is c 7 3 7 ¼ m; infant hair has a diameter of about a 8 ¼ m [ 8]. Thin or b ne hair may occur mostly in the northern part of Europe. The disadvantages of this hair type are generally that the hair is often too smooth (like children 9s hair), has a poor volume and exhibits cc y-away d, especially in dry climates. If the hair b bers are electrostatically charged by combing or other means, it can be nearly impossible to style the hair. Caucasian hair generally is just slightly curled; therefore a common cosmetic treatment is perming. Bleaching and dying are also common treatments on this hair type. With increasing age, a natural change occurs in the hair. The hair turns grey or white and becomes more rigid and slightly thicker. Therefore grey or white hair is not classed as b ne hair, but rather as medium hair. TAick/cG:rs> A:ir Hair types with a wider diameter are represented by the Asian, the South American/Mediterranian and the African hair types. Within this group the main distinction is the form of a cross section of the hair b bers. While Asian hair exhibits a circular cross section, the other hair types are more elliptic. An African hair b ber is most elliptical, appearing as a band. This structural form renders African hair more susceptible to mechanical damage. The degree of elliptic cross section correlates with the curliness. The Asian hair type is typically straight; therefore a common cosmetic treatment is permanent waving. In Asia, bleaching and dying are also widespread treatments. In the Asian markets, hair coloring is generally done to lighten the hair color. Grey coverage, which had not been common, is gaining in popularity. The South American and Mediterranean hair types are quite curly. Here, straight hair with a low volume is desired. Therefore, permanent straightening is an often-used cosmetic treatment. Permanent straightening is from a chemical point of view a very similar process to waving. Therefore hair care needs are very similar for both types of damage. The African hair type is very curly. If hair is very curly, this property dominates other b ber properties and controls hair effects [ 8], and needs therefore very specib c cosmetic treatments. When straight hair with low volume is desired, chemical straighteners, which can damage the hair, are employed. Further damage is inc icted if the hair is subsequently bleached or dyed to achieve a specib c color. 2. CGFditiGFiFg N>>ds ?Gr Di??>r>Ft H:ir TyH>s Hair conditioning products have to provide a wide variety of different properties. The properties that are specib c to a need are claimed on the package, others are simply implied. The most important properties that need to be addressed in a hair conditione r are: " detangling/wet comb " wet feel " dry comb improved (lower force) " dry comb reduced (higher force, provides hold of the style) " dry feel " gloss/shine " style retention (reduced curl droop) " straightening effect (weighing down, poor volume) " volume/body " antistatic effect " color protection " hair strengthening properties b Looking into this list of conditioning effect one may think, that all of them are requested in any case. This is true, but nevertheless, the most important parameters do differ between specib c hair types. Figure 9 shows an overview about the specib c conditioning needs of the various hair types, which already have been described in chapter 8. The crosses symbolise the cprimary d importance of need, the circles symbolise the csecondary d need for property improvement. Improvement of detangling/wet combability is important for all hair types, because this property is immediately perceived by the consumer. The improvement of the wet feel is mostly important for colored hair which feels very hard and rough when wet. The parameter cdry combing d has to be differentiated: b ne hair does not necessarily need reduced dry combing forces, because this would lead to a reduced volume related to the lower friction between the single b bers. But thick hair and curly hair types generally do need to be smooth in the dry stage, especially if they are chemically treated. Dry feel is also one of the parameters, which are detected by the consumers immediately and is therefore important for all hair types. Gloss/shine is mostly important for straight hair, because curly hair has a structure related low shiny appearance. Colored hair needs to have a gloss improvement. An improved hold of the hairstyle is mostly interesting for b ne and normal hair. This plays also a role in minimizing the frizzyness of curly hair. For this type of hair, deb ned curls or even straight styled hair is desired. A straightening effect is desired for the thick hair type. The opposite, an increased volume/body is desired for b ne and normal hair with exception of the permed types (because the perming treatment already increase the volume). An antistatic effect is mostly interesting for the chemically treated b ne and normal hair because of the lowered isoelectric point of the hair keratin. An improved color protection is essential for colored hair, esp. for the very modern intensely red colored hair. The red pigments are much smaller than others and therefore may be washed out more easily. The table in Figure 9 summarizes the specib c conditioning needs of the various hair types. Detangling/wet comb Figure 9: Conditioning properties relevant for specib c hair types Hair type Properties FiF> virgin O X X X O permed O O O X dyed O X O X X O X X X NGrm:l (Caucasian) virgin O O X O grey/white O O X O permed O O X O O dyed O X O O X O O O X TAick/cG:rs> str:igAt ( Asian) virgin, grey/white O O O O O X permed O O X O O dyed O X X O X X O curly ( South American, North African) virgin, grey/white X O O O X straightened X O X O X X dyed X X O O X O curly ( Ethnic) virgin, grey/white O O O X X straightened X O X X X X dyed O X O X X O c X = >ss>Fti:l; O = imHGrt:Ft Wet feel Dry comb improved (lower force) Dry comb reduced (higher force) Dry feel Gloss/shine Hold of hairstyle (reduced curl droop) Straightening effect (weighing down) Volume/body Antistatic effect Wash fastness/color protection 3. T>st M>tAGds ?Gr D>t>rmiF:tiGF G? CGFditiGFiFg PrGH>rty ImHrGv>m>Ft In Figure a an overview of the test methods used to assess the conditioning properties of conditioning agents is given. These methodologies can be differentiated into technical measurements and sensory assessments. d Figure a: Test methods Technical measurements on hair swatches " Combing force measurements " Body/volume measurements " Curl retention tests " Antistatic test: Fly away measurements " Measurements of the wash fastness of semipermanent/permanent dyes Sensory methods " Hair swatch tests " Technical tests done by hairdresser (Salon tests) " Consumer tests T>cAFic:l m>:sur>m>Fts One of the most common measurements is the determination of the combing forces . This method allows measuring forces, which occur while combing in a high sensitive manner. To do the body/volume measurements , the hair swatches are pulled through a ring. The force measured in this design is mainly inc uenced by the compression of the hair tress into this ring [ 9]. The curl retention test (Figure b) is normally used for styling products. We did this test for the differentiation of conditioners. The change of humidity directly effects the water content of hair and plastib es the hair cortex. The conditioners may make the surface more hydrophobic, reducing the absorption of atmospheric water. This hydrophobizing effect keeps the hairstyle more stable and is also important for curly hair in order to avoid frizzyness. To measure the antistatic properties of conditioners, we use the shadow contour method (Figure c). Under deb ned climatic conditions the hair swatch is b xed in front of a centric measuring scale. By using a light source, the shadow image is created and the spreading before and after charging by deb ned combing is measured. The measurement of the color protection or wash fastness can be done by using a spectrophotometer. Hair swatches are dyed with a permanent or a semipermanent dye and after drying the CIE-L*a*b-colour values are measured. This is done again after a deb ned number of treatments (shampooing and/or treatment with a rinse). The lower the difference of the color values is, the better is the wash fastness property of the tested product. Curl r>t>FtiGF [%] = (L - Lt/L - L0) * 100 e Curl l>FgtA :t t0 :?t>r dryiFg :t 50 % r>l. Aumidity Curl l>FgtA :?t>r 2 AGurs :t 70 % r>l. Aumidity Figure b: Curl retention test Figure c: Fly away effect measuring method S>FsGry m>tAGds Technical methods are useful in screening products and formulations, but sensory methods should be used to conb rm the b ndings. When performed by trained personnel, sensory use data will closely parallel consumer preferences. H:ir sw:tcA t>st A sensory hair swatch test with standardised damaged hair is mostly used as a screening. By using a deb ned scoring system, we rate the following properties by sensory assessment: detangling/wet comb, wet feel, dry comb, dry feel, volume and gloss. S:lGF t>sts (A:l? A>:d t>sts) dGF> by A:irdr>ss>rs One of the most important conditioning tests is the half head test. Here, the hair of a test subject is treated with two different formulations, one on the left and one on the right of the head. The hairdresser is able to make a direct comparison of properties like ease of distribution, rinsability, wet and dry comb, wet and dry feel, drying time, gloss, volume/body, antistatic behaviour, bounce, build up, etc. Generally a deb ned scoring system is used. f 4. CGFditiGFiFg Ag>Fts The product line Personal Care of Evonik offers a wide range of conditioning agents for rinses and intensive treatment products . This range consists of organic based as well as of silicone based conditioning agents. Figures d and e give an overview of the most important products that were differentiated by conducting several tests. One of the aims of this study was to b nd possible syn er- gistic effects between the organic and the silicone based products. Quat-Type Trade name INCI name R=C 8 d VARISOFT ® a 7 7 Cetrimonium Chloride Monoalkyl R=C 9 9 VARISOFT ® BT f c Behentrimonium Chloride VARISOFT ® EQ d c Distearoylethyl Dimonium Esterquat R=C 8 e Pellets Chloride, Cetearyl Alcohol R=C 8 d VARISOFT ® b a 9 PPG Dicetyldimonium Chloride Dialkyl R=C 8 f VARISOFT ® TA 8 7 7 Distearyldimonium Chloride Imidazolinium R=Palm VARISOFT ® W c e c PG Quaternium- f e Amidoquat R=Palm VARISOFT ® PATC Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride Amidoamine R=C 8 e TEGO ® Amid S 8 f Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine Figure d: Tested cationics H 3 C R N H 3 C CH 3 CI - + CI - + H 3 C CH 2 CH 2 OCR N H 3 C CH 2 CH 2 OCR O O H 3 C R N H 3 C R CI - + N N CH 2 CH 2 NHCR CH 3 OSO 3 - + CH 3 O R O CH 3 + RCNHCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 N CH 3 CH 3 CI - RCNHCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 N CH 3 CH 3 O CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 H 3 C Si O Si O Si O Si O Et CH 3 CH 3 (CH 2 ) 3 (CH 2 ) 3 O NH 2 O CH 2 CH 2 P O CH 2 CH CH 3 Y O CH 3 F Amino functional siloxane: Methoxy PEG/PPG e/ a Aminopropyl Dimethicone ( ABIL ® SG?t AF 100 , liquid, 8 7 7 % active) Figure e: Tested silicones Siloxane quat: Quaternium- f 7 ( ABIL ® Qu:t 3272 , liquid, c 7 % active ABIL ® Qu:t 3474 , viscous, e % active) Org:Fic b:s>d c:tiGFics Two monoalkyl quats with different C-chain-length were tested: one of the most common conditioning agents Cetrimonium Chloride ( cCTAC d, VARISOFT ® a 7 7), which functioned in all our tests as a standard, and the more hydrophobic VARISOFT ® BT f c (Behentrimonium Chloride). In 9 7 7 e a new environmental friendly cationic was introduced. VARISOFT ® EQ d c Pellets is an ester quat based on high purity stearic acid and is compounded with Cetearyl Alcohol. It is a readily biodegradable conditioning agent with a high c ash point. Furthermore two dialkyl quats were tested: VARISOFT ® b a 9 PPG (Dicetyldimonium Chloride) and VARISOFT ® TA 8 7 7 (Distearyldimonium Chloride). VARISOFT ® W c e c PG (Quaternium- f e) is an imidazolinium based quaternary which offers good biodegradability, TEGO ® Amid S 8 f (Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine), and VARISOFT ® PATC (Palmitamidoproyltrimonium Chloride) were also evaluated. SilicGF> b:s>d cGFditiGFiFg :g>Fts The two most interesting silicones for conditioners from our range are ABIL ® Soft AF 8 7 7, an aminofunctional siloxane (Methoxy PEG/PPG e/ a Aminopropyl Dimethicone) and ABIL ® Quat a b e b, a high molecular siloxane quat (Quaternium- f 7). It is common to use silicone derivatives in combinations with organics. Potential synergies between both types of conditioning chemistries were investigated. ABIL ® Quat a 9 e 9 with the same INCI name has a lower molecular weight due to a shorter silicone chain. This makes it better to dilute in clear aqueous systems like shampoos and can therefore be used in both, shampoos and conditioners. The test results shown in this brochure have been generated with ABIL ® Quat a b e b. O CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 O R N N O Si O Si O N N R H CH 3 OH CH 3 F CH 3 OH CH 3 H + + m 5. Pr>H:r:tiGF G? tA> H:ir Sw:tcA>s :Fd T>st FGrmul:tiGFs For the sensory test on hair swatches these were damaged by bleaching (and perming) in a standardised way. Then standard aliquots of the conditioning agents were applied via a simple hair rinse formulation, based on Since the ester quat VARISOFT ® EQ d c Pellets was introduced to the market in 9 7 7 e after b nalizing the comparison of the other conditioning agents, professional half head tests have been conducted separately to compare the conditioning properties against two standards: Cetrimonium Chloride and Behentrimonium Chloride. The tests have been done by an independent test institute with 8 7 panelists by applying formulations based on: 8 7 " 7. c % emulsib er (Ceteareth- 9 7 resp. Ceteareth- 9 c) " 9. 7 % Cetyl Alcohol " 8. 7 or 9. 7 % active of the tested conditioning agents (for combination 8. 7 + 8. 7 %) " ad 8 7 7. 7 % water " pH ad b. 7 resp. c. 7 cControl d indicates this formulation with no conditioning agent. " 7. c % emulsib er (Ceteareth- 9 c) " c. c % Cetearyl Alcohol " 9. 7 % active quat " ad 8 7 7. 7 % water " pH ad b. c 8 8 Figure f: Summary of superior test results for each property improvement 6. R>sults Figure f gives an overview about the best products for each property-improvement. Detangling, wet combability Wet feel " VARISOFT ® BT f c " VARISOFT ® EQ d c Pellets " TEGO ® Amid S 8 f " Synergistic combinations of: " ABIL ® Quat a b e b with VARISOFT ® TA 8 7 7 " ABIL ® Quat a b e b with TEGO ® Amid S 8 f " VARISOFT ® BT f c " VARISOFT ® EQ d c Pellets " VARISOFT ® b a 9 PPG Dry combability -improved " VARISOFT ® TA 8 7 7 " VARISOFT ® b a 9 PPG " Synergistic combination of ABIL ® Quat a b e b and TEGO ® Amid S 8 f Dry combability -reduced (improvement of hold) " VARISOFT ® W c e c PG " VARISOFT ® PATC " TEGO ® Amid S 8 f Dry feel " VARISOFT ® BT f c " VARISOFT ® PATC " VARISOFT ® EQ d c Gloss/shine " TEGO ® Amid S 8 f " ABIL ® Quat a b e b Body/volume " TEGO ® Amid S 8 f " VARISOFT ® W c e c PG " ABIL ® Soft AF 8 7 7 Straightening/weighing down effect Elevated use levels of: " VARISOFT ® BT f c " VARISOFT ® b a 9 PPG " Synergistic combinations with ABIL ® Quat Anti-c y-away " VARISOFT ® W c e c PG " VARISOFT ® TA 8 7 7 " VARISOFT ® a 7 7 " TEGO ® Amid S 8 f Style retention, anti-frizz " ABIL ® Soft AF 8 7 7 " VARISOFT ® TA 8 7 7 " VARISOFT ® b a 9 PPG Wash fastness " VARISOFT ® BT f c " Synergistic combinations of: " ABIL ® Quat with VARISOFT ® W c e c PG " ABIL ® Soft AF 8 7 7 with VARISOFT ® BT f c 8 9 D>t:FgliFg :Fd w>t cGmb According to our sensory test results on swatches, VARISOFT ® BT f c gave the best improvement of detangling and wet comb properties, followed by VARISOFT ® b a 9 PPG and TEGO ® Amid S 8 f. The graph in Figure shows the score difference between the different test formulations compared to the CTAC formulation. Control VARISOFT ® b a 9 PPG TEGO ® Amid S 8 f VARISOFT ® BT f c VARISOFT ® W c e c PG VARISOFT ® TA 8 7 7 VARISOFT ® PATC VARISOFT ® a 7 7 (CTAC) -60 -40 -20 0 20 40 Figure : Wet combability test results of sensory assessment with hair tresses 27.6 19.2 38.4 6.9 8.4 7.2 0 -42.3 Score Difference to CTAC [%] st:tistic:lly di??>r>Ft tG CTAC (DuFc:F MultiHl> R:Fg> T>st) B>st w>t cGmb scGriFg ?Gr VARISOFT ® 432 PPG :Fd VARISOFT ® BT 85. Test formula: rinse 7. c % Ceteareth- 9 7 9. 7 % Cetyl Alcohol 1.0 % :ctiv> CGFditiGFiFg :g>Ft ad 8 7 7. 7 % water; pH= c Additionally there is a synergistic effect when VARISOFT ® TA 8 7 7 is used in combination with ABIL ® Quat a b e b. Another synergism was found by doing the half-head-test. Figure 8 7 shows the results (tests done by an institute). This was a direct comparison between " CTAC and TEGO ® Amid S 8 f, where no signib cant difference was found, " CTAC and ABIL ® Quat a b e b, where a signib cant difference in favour for the silicone quat was found (for this comparison also see Figure 8 9), " CTAC and the combination, where a high signib cant difference in favour for the combination was found. W>t ?>>l In the sensory evaluation, the best product with regard to the improvement of wet feel is VARISOFT ® b a 9 PPG, which was signib cantly better than the standard CTAC. VARISOFT ® BT f c also imparted a noticeable improvement in wet feel. 8 a 50 40 30 20 10 0 -10 -20 ScGr> di??>r>Fc> tG CTAC [%] TEGO ® Amid S 18 ABIL ® Qu:t 3474 1 % S18/1 % 3474 cGmbiF:tiGF FG st:tistic:l di??>r>Fc> sigFiS c:Ft di??>r>Fc> AigA sigFiS c:Ft di??>r>Fc> TEGO ® Amid S 18 :Fd ABIL ® Qu:t 3474 syF>rgistic:lly imHrGv> d>t:FgliFg :Fd w>t cGmb. St:tistics: WilcGPGF t>st Test formula: rinse 7. c % Ceteareth- 9 c 9. 7 % Cetyl Alcohol 2.0 % :ctiv> CGFditiGFiFg :g>Ft ad 8 7 7. 7 % water; pH= b CGmH:risGF :g:iFst CTAC (VARISOFT ® 300) Figure 8 7: Wet combability test results of half-head tests done by hairdresser Dry cGmb Dry combing values differ less than wet combing values. VARISOFT ® b a 9 PPG was judged to offer the most signib cant improvement in dry comb. VARISOFT ® TA 8 7 7 also yielded positive results. In a half-head-test against CTAC, the combination of TEGO ® Amid S 8 f plus ABIL ® Quat a b e b was found to provide synergistic beneb ts. An increased dry combing force, which is important for volume improvement, was found in the sensory test for VARISOFT ® W c e c PPG as well as for VARISOFT ® PATC. As determined by technical combing force measurements, TEGO ® Amid S 8 f increased the combing forces in comparison to an untreated control (Figure 8 8), (tests done by an institute). 20 10 0 -10 -20 -30 -40 R>l:tiv> cA:Fg> G? cGmbiFg ?Grc> [%] TEGO ® Amid S 18 ABIL ® Qu:t 3474 VARISOFT ® 300 CGFtrGl (CTAC) ABIL ® Qu:t 3474 :Fd VARISOFT ® 300 r>duc> tA> dry cGmbiFg ?Grc>. TA> lGw r>ductiGF G? tA> dry cGmbiFg ?Grc> G? TEGO ® Amid S 18 r>sults iF : lGFg>r l:st G? tA> A:irstyl> (imHGrt:Ft ?Gr S F> A:ir). Test formula: rinse 7. c % Ceteareth- 9 c 9. 7 % Cetyl Alcohol 2.0 % :ctiv> CGFditiGFiFg :g>Ft ad 8 7 7. 7 % water; pH= b Figure 8 8: Dry combing force measurement results :ritAm>tic m>:F v:lu> st:Fd:rd >rrGr cGFS d>Fc> r:Fg> 95 % 8 b Dry ?>>l In the sensory hair swatch test, we found best dry feel scoring for VARISOFT ® BT f c and VARISOFT ® PATC. GlGss/sAiF> For the gloss improvement, again determined by the sensory hair swatch test we found best results for TEGO ® Amid S 8 f and ABIL ® Quat a b e b. The results for the ABIL ® Quat a b e b were conb rmed in a half- head salon test where this silicone quaternary was judged to be directionally better than CTAC. Figure 8 9 shows the total result of that half-head test, including further parameters like combability and feel (salon test conducted at an independent test institute). Figure 8 9: Results of the half-head-test ABIL ® Quat a b e b against CTAC as Standard ABIL ® Qu:t 3474 w:s scGr>d t>Fd>FciGusly b>tt>r tA:F CTAC. 5 4 3 2 1 0 riFs>:bility w>t cGmb:bility w>t ?>>l dryiFg tim> dry cGmb:bility dry ?>>l >l:sticity gloss vGlum> :Ftist:tic >??>ct build-uH distributiGF c:H:bility tendencious ABIL ® Qu:t 3474 CTAC 5 = >Pc>ll>Ft 1 = v>ry d>S ci>Ft Test formula: rinse 7. c % Ceteareth- 9 c 9. 7 % Cetyl Alcohol 2.0 % :ctiv> CGFditiGFiFg :g>Ft ad 8 7 7. 7 % water; pH= b signi' cant signi' cant signi' cant 8 c BGdy/VGlum> Conditioners reduce the volume of the hair by three mechanisms: reducing the b ber to b ber friction to smooth the hair, softe ning the b bers and by weighing down the hair mass. According to our sensory test, VARISOFT ® W c e c PG was the conditioning additive least likely to impart these effects making it most suited to conditioners developed for the b ne hair segment. Because of the good result for the aminofunctional siloxane, w e combined this product with some conditioning additives that are known to reduce the body of hair. Figure 8 a shows the results. In all cases the negative impact of the organic quats on body/volume could be minimized via the addition of ABIL ® Soft AF 8 7 7. The most signib cant synergy was exhibited by a blend of the ABIL ® Soft AF 8 7 7 with the VARISOFT ® BT f c. ABIL ® SG?t AF 100 HrGvid>s b>tt>r vGlum> scGr> tA:F tA> qu:ts (:s siFgl> iFgr>di>Fts). CGmbiF:tiGFs (1:1) G? Grg:Fic qu:ts witA ABIL ® SG?t AF 100 cGmH>Fs:t> tA> F>g:tiv> imH:ct G? Grg:Fic qu:ts GF bGdy/vGlum>. Test formula: rinse 7. c% Ceteareth- 9 c 9. 7% Cetyl Alcohol 2.0% :ctiv> CGFditiGFiFg :g>Ft ad 8 7 7, 7% water; pH= b VARISOFT ® a 7 7 VARISOFT ® BT f c VARISOFT ® TA 8 7 7 VARISOFT ® b a 9 PPG VARISOFT ® a 7 7 + ABIL ® Soft AF 8 7 7 VARISOFT ® BT f c + ABIL ® Soft AF 8 7 7 VARISOFT ® TA 8 7 7 + ABIL ® Soft AF 8 7 7 VARISOFT ® b a 9 PPG + ABIL ® Soft AF 8 7 7 ABIL ® Soft AF 8 7 7 Figure 8 a: Body/Volume results for combinations with ABIL Soft ® AF 8 7 7 Score of sensory assessment ( c = best) 0 1 2 3 4 5 8 d Figure 8 b describes the results of the technical ring method (tests done by an institute). These results correlate well to tho se of the dry combing forces (Figure 8 8): the lowest volume reduction after conditioning treatment was measured for TEGO ® Amid S 8 f. 0 -5 -10 -15 -20 -25 -30 -35 -40 -45 -50 R>l:tiv> cA:Fg> G? vGlum> ?Grc> [%] TEGO ® Amid S 18 1 % TEGO ® Amid S 18 ABIL ® Qu:t 3474 CTAC CGFtrGl 1 % ABIL ® Qu:t 3474 :ritAm>tic m>:F v:lu> st:Fd:rd >rrGr cGFS d>Fc> r:Fg> 95 % TA> lGw r>ductiGF G? vGlum> ?Grc> by tA> TEGO ® Amid S 18 m:k>s it suit:bl> ?Gr Hr>H:r:tiGFs >sH>ci:lly ?Gr S F>, tAiF A:ir. Test formula: rinse 7. c % Ceteareth- 9 c 9. 7 % Cetyl Alcohol 2.0 % :ctiv> CGFditiGFiFg :g>Ft ad 8 7 7. 7 % water; pH= b Figure 8 b: Results of body-/volume-measurements AFtist:tic HrGH>rti>s All conditioning agents reduced static charges caused by combing to nearly the same extent. With a lower charge density, ABIL ® Quat a b e b was least efb cacious in dissipating the static charge. R>ductiGF G? curl drGGH (imHrGv>d AGld G? A:irstyl>) In comparison to the control formulation (placebo), all conditioning agents increased the curl droop. The lowest reduction was measured for the two dialkylquats VARISOFT ® TA 8 7 7 and VARISOFT ® b a 9 PPG. The reason for that could be better hydrophobizing properties of these products. In between the monoalkylquats and the dialkylquats lays the curl retention propert y of ABIL ® Soft AF 8 7 7. This is why we combined this product and found some synergistic effects. An example is the combination of ABIL ® Soft AF 8 7 7 with TEGO ® Amid S 8 f (Figure 8 c). The hydrophobizing effect protects the hair b ber against humidity, which makes the hair style being more stable. This is a very important property for b ne hair, but also for frizzy hair. Frizzy hair normally is styled to have either deb ned curls or to smoothen the hair. With a change of humidity, the hair b ber is plasticized and ge ts into its original form (frizzy) again. 8 e 100 95 90 85 80 75 70 65 60 55 50 45 40 Curl r>t>FtiGF [%] ( = L 3 L t / L 3 L G ) * 100 0 0.5 1 2 3 5 ABIL ® SG?t AF 100 Hlus TEGO ® Amid S 18 r>duc> tA> curl drGGH syF>rgistic:lly. Test formula: rinse 7. c % Ceteareth- 9 c 9. 7 % Cetyl Alcohol 2.0 % :ctiv> CGFditiGFiFg :g>Ftt ad 8 7 7. 7 % water; pH= b Figure 8 c: Curl retention results CGFtrGl ABIL ® SG?t AF 100 TEGO ® Amid S 18 1 % TEGO ® Amid S 18 + 1 % ABIL ® SG?t AF 100 tim> [A] 8 f W:sA ?:stF>ss/cGlGr HrGt>ctiGF The best wash fastness/color protection beneb ts were found for VARISOFT ® BT f c alone and the combination of VARISOFT ® W c e c PG in combination with either ABIL ® Soft AF 8 7 7 or ABIL ® Quat a b e b. Figure 8 d shows the results (tests done by an outside testing laboratory). The color difference between the control and the test formulations is given as a relative value. Placebo (water) VARISOFT ® BT f c/ABIL ® Soft AF 8 7 7 VARISOFT ® W c e c PG/ABIL ® Soft AF 8 7 7 VARISOFT ® BT f c/ABIL ® Quat a b e b VARISOFT ® W c e c PG/ABIL ® Quat a b e b ABIL ® Soft AF 8 7 7 ABIL ® Quat a b e b VARISOFT ® BT f c VARISOFT ® W c e c PG Control Figure 8 d: Wash fastness results. Measurement of the color value after 8 7 times shampooing with SLES (European hair, dyed with a semipermanent dye ccherry red c) < good bad > Comparison of color difference E* in against control [%] VARISOFT ® BT 85 :Fd cGmbiF:tiGFs G? VARISOFT ® W 575 PG witA tA> silicGF> cGFditiGF>rs imHrGv> w:sA ?:stF>ss G? s>miH>rm:F>Ft dy>s mGst. Test formula: rinse 7. c % Ceteareth- 9 c 9. 7 % Cetyl Alcohol 2.0 % Activ> Grg:Fic CGFditiGF>r/ 1.0 % SilicGF> CGFditiGF>r/ 3.0 % cGmbiF:tiGF ad 8 7 7. 7 % water; pH= b -25 -2 -15 -10 -5 0 5 10 -5.9 -2.9 -21 -13.2 -15.5 ( E* b. d. 9) ( E* b. e e) ( E* a. f f) ( E* b. a) ( E* b. 9 d) ( E* c. 8 f) ( E* b. a) ( E* b. 8 c) ( E* b. 9) ( E* b. 8) 0.4 5.5 0.4 0.2 0 8 -0.8 -0.6 -0.4 -0.2 0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 * conducted externally by an independent test institute Figure 8 e: Half-head test results 3 CTAC vs. VARISOFT ® EQ d c Pellets CTAC no VARISOFT ® EQ d c better difference better VARISOFT ® EQ 65 P>ll>ts GutH>r?Grms C>trimGFium CAlGrid>. Formula: rinse 7. c% Ceteareth- 9 c c. c% Cetearyl Alcohol 9. 7% active quat pH = b. c WitA 10 H:F>lists* riFs>:bility w>t cGmb w>t ?>>l dry cGmb dry ?>>l bGuFc> glGss bGdy / vGlum> :Ftist:tic >:s> tG styl> w>igAiFg dGwF dir>ctly w>igAiFg dGwF l:t>r H:l? A>:d t>st r>sults The new environment friendly ester quat VARISOFT ® EQ d c Pellets was compared against two standards by professional hairdressers utilizing half-head test protocol: Cetrimonium Chloride (VARISOFT ® a 7 7) and the positive standard Behentrimonium Chloride (VARISOFT ® BT f c). Figure 8 e shows that VARISOFT ® EQ d c Pellets clearly outperforms Cetrimonium Chloride in wet and dry conditioning parameters. Figure 8 f shows that VARISOFT ® EQ d c provides similar conditioning performance as VARISOFT ® BT f c. 9 7 -0.8 -0.6 -0.4 -0.2 0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 * conducted externally by an independent test institute Figure 8 f: Half-head test results 3 BTAC vs. VARISOFT ® EQ d c CTAC no VARISOFT ® EQ d c better difference better VARISOFT ® EQ 65 P>ll>ts HrGvid>s simil:r >Pc>ll>Ft cGFditiGFiFg HrGH>rti>s lik> VARISOFT ® BT 85. Formula: rinse 7. c% Ceteareth- 9 c c. c% Cetearyl Alcohol 9. 7% active quat pH = b. c WitA 10 H:F>lists* riFs>:bility w>t cGmb w>t ?>>l dry cGmb dry ?>>l bGuFc> glGss bGdy/vGlum> :Ftist:tic >:s> tG styl> w>igAiFg dGwF dir>ctly w>igAiFg dGwF l:t>r 9 8 Summ:ry: SH>ciS c HrGH>rti>s G? cGFditiGFiFg :g>Fts ?Gr riFs>s Figure 8 gives an overview of the test results, the tested products and their specib c properties and advantages. Overall, th e most efb cient conditioners to fulb l the needs of strongly damaged hair are VARISOFT ® BT f c and VARISOFT ® EQ d c Pellets. Other conditioning ingredients are recommended for special hair types and specib c properties, such as VARISOFT ® W c e c PG for increased volume (list a specib c property) for b ne hair. X = suH>riGr t>st r>sults; O = HGsitiv> t>st r>sults Figure 8 : Specib c properties of conditioning agents for rinses Product Properties Detangling/wet comb Wet feel Dry comb Dry feel Gloss/shine Minimizes curl droop Body/volume Anti - c y - away Wash fastness Hair type Additional beneb t Use level [%] VARISOFT ® a 7 7 (Cetrimonium Chloride) O O O O X O All types Emulsib er 8. 7 3 a. 7 All types, VARISOFT ® EQ d c Pellets also coarse, Environmental (Distearoylethyl Dimonium brittle, friendly, Chloride; Cetearyl Alcohol) X X O X damaged emulsib er 7. a 3 a. 7 Coarse, VARISOFT ® BT f c brittle, (Behentrimonium Chloride) X X O X O X damaged Emulsib er 7. 9 3 9. 7 VARISOFT ® b a 9 PPG (Dicetyldimonium Chloride) X X X O normal Emulsib er 8. 7 3 a. 7 Excellent emulsib er, VARISOFT ® TA 8 7 7 synergism: (Distearyldimonium Chloride) O X O X normal ABIL ® Quat a b e b 8. 7 3 a. 7 VARISOFT ® W c e c PG (Quaternium- f e) O O X X X b ne No build up 8. c 3 9. c VARISOFT ® PATC (Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Thickening in Chloride) O O X O All types surf. formulas 8. 7 3 b. 7 TEGO ® Amid S 8 f All types Emulsib er, (Stearamidopropyl esp. b ne synergism: Dimethylamine) X O O O X O hair ABIL ® Quat a b e b 8. 7 3 a. 7 Self emulsifying, improves ABIL ® Soft AF 8 7 7 volume and curl (Methoxy PEG/PPG- e/ a All types, stability of Aminopropyl Dimethicone X X O b ne hair org. quats 7. a 3 b. 7 Synergistic with 7. 9 3 a. 7 ABIL ® Quat a b e b TEGO ® Amid S 8 f (Quaternium- f 7) O O X X All types & ABIL ® Quat a b e b 9 9 7. CGmHr>A>Fsiv> M:triP In the table (Figure 9 7) the performance results for the conditioning agents were correlated with the different hair types hav ing differing performance requirements. The suggestions are based on the test results for the individual properties. From the resul ts with conditioning agents in hair rinse application, those products are selected providing the best b t to the treatment effect needed. By matching a specib c need or hair type with performance results, a recommendation of a conditioning ingredient or a selection of products becomes apparent. Ingredients with best performance (positive results in one or more tests) are printed in bold letters. This matrix is dedicated to help in selecting the right conditioning agent for the desired performance of a formulation. It should be used as a working tool, he lping to avoid unnecessary trials in formulation work and performance testing. The table refers to the application Conditioning Rinse/Intensive Treatment. X = >ss>Fti:l; O = imHGrt:Ft Figure 9 7: Performance results correlated with specib c performance requirements Hair type Properties Detangling/wet comb Wet feel Dry comb improved (lower force) Dry comb reduced (higher force) Dry feel Gloss/shine Hold of hairstyle (reduced curl droop) Straightening effect (weighing down, poor volume) Body/volume Antistatic effect Wash fastness/color protection FiF> virgin O X X X O permed O O O X dyed O X O X X O X X X NGrm:l (Caucasian) virgin O O X O grey/white O O X O permed O O X O O dyed O X O O X O O O X TAick/cG:rs> str:igAt ( Asian) virgin, grey/white O O O O O X permed O O X O O dyed O X X O X X O curly ( SGutA Am>ric:F, NGrtA A?ric:F) virgin, grey/white X O O O X straightened X O X O X X dyed X X O O X O curly ( Ethnic) virgin, grey/white O O O X X straightened X O X X X X dyed O X O X X O 9 a Lit>r:tur> [ 8] Robbins, C.R.: Chemical and Physical Behaviour of Human Hair, Springer Verlag ( 8 b) [ 9] Robbins, C.R.; Crawford, R.J. ( 8 f b): Method to evaluate hair body. J. Soc. Cosm. Chemistry a c, a d 3 a e e AutAGrs Uta Kortemeier, Holger I. Leidreiter, Sascha Herrwerth Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH, Essen, Germany Ingredients for rinses VARISOFT ® W 575 PG; TEGO ® Amid S 18; ABIL ® SOFT AF 100; VARISOFT ® PATC TEGO ® Amid S 8 f; VARISOFT ® W c e c PG; VARISOFT ® a 7 7 VARISOFT ® W 575 PG; TEGO ® Amid S 18; VARISOFT ® BT 85; VARISOFT ® PATC ; ABIL ® SOFT AF 8 7 7 ABIL ® SOFT AF 8 7 7; VARISOFT ® TA 8 7 7; VARISOFT ® b a 9 PPG VARISOFT ® BT f c; VARISOFT ® PATC VARISOFT ® TA 8 7 7; VARISOFT ® b a 9 PPG; TEGO ® Amid S 8 f and ABIL ® Quat a b e b VARISOFT ® BT 85 ; VARISOFT ® b a 9 PPG; TEGO ® Amid S 8 f; ABIL ® Quat a b e b; VARISOFT ® W c e c PG (higher dosage for straightening effect) ABIL ® Quat a b e b; Quats at high use level VARISOFT ® TA 8 7 7; VARISOFT ® b a 9 PPG; ABIL ® Quat a b e b and TEGO ® Amid S 8 f VARISOFT ® 432 PPG; ABIL ® Qu:t 3474 :Fd TEGO ® Amid S 18; VARISOFT ® BT 85; VARISOFT ® TA 8 7 7 ABIL ® Qu:t 3474 :Fd TEGO ® Amid S 18 or/and VARISOFT ® TA 8 7 7; VARISOFT ® BT f c; VARISOFT ® b a 9 PPG VARISOFT ® BT 85; VARISOFT ® 432 PPG; ABIL ® Qu:t 3474 :Fd TEGO ® Amid S 18 or/and VARISOFT ® TA 8 7 7 VARISOFT ® 432 PPG; ABIL ® Qu:t 3474 :Fd TEGO ® Amid S 18 or/and VARISOFT ® TA 8 7 7; VARISOFT ® BT f c VARISOFT ® BT f c; VARISOFT ® PATC; ABIL ® Quat a b e b ABIL ® Qu:t 3474 :Fd TEGO ® Amid S 18; VARISOFT ® 432 PPG; VARISOFT ® TA 8 7 7; VARISOFT ® BT f c VARISOFT ® BT 85 ; VARISOFT ® b a 9 PPG; VARISOFT ® PATC ; ABIL ® Quat a b e b 03/2008 Inv.-Nr.: 28 - 08 Evonik Industries AG Rellinghauser Strasse 1 311 45128 Essen Germany phone + 49 201 177- 01 fax +49 201 177-3475 www.evonik.com YGur CGFt:ct H>:dG?S c> EvGFik GGldscAmidt GmbH Goldschmidtstrasse \x9\xa\xa 45127 Essen Germany P.O. Box 45116 Essen phone + 49 201 173- 2854 fax +49 201 173- 1828 personal-care@evonik.com www.evonik.com/personal-care EurGH> Fr:Fc> Paris phone +33 6 864 917 91 SH:iF Granollers phone +34 938 642 178 fax +34 938 642 161 TA> Br:sil Am>ric:s São Paulo phone +55 11 314 641 00 fax +55 11 314 641 31 Asi: CAiF: Shanghai phone +86 21 611 910 00 fax +86 21 611 912 64 It:ly Pandino (Cr) phone +39 037 3975 221 fax +39 037 3975 260 C:F:d: Oakville phone + 1 905 336 34 23 fax + 1 905 633 75 53 IFdGF>si: Bekasi Timur phone +62 21 882 83 22 fax +62 21 882 83 21 Gr>:t Brit:iF Milton Keynes phone +44 1908 582 250 fax +44 1908 582 254 M>PicG Mexico City phone + 4 1 4 4 4 3 5 2 0\xf \xf\xf fax + 52 555 673 66 49 J:H:F Tokyo phone +81 3 532 387 90 fax +81 3 532 387 89 Sc:FdiF:vi: Rungsted, Denmark phone +45 449 918 00 fax +45 449 901 80 USA Hopewell phone +1 804 541 86 58 fax +1 804 541 86 89 KGr>: Seoul phone +82 2 207 123 00 fax +82 2 785 52 47 For more detailed information or to obtain a brochure which addresses a spe-cib c area of interest, please contact the Evonik Goldschmidt Head Ofb ce in Essen or contact your local representative. This information and all further technical advice are based on Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH 8s present knowledge and experience. However, Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH assumes no liability for providing such information and advice including the extent to which such information and advice may relate to existing third party intellectual property rights, especially patent rights. In particular, Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH disclaims ALL CONDITIONS AND WARRANTIES, WHETHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE OR MERCHANTABILITY. EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT GMBH SHALL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR CONSEQUENTIAL, INDIRECT OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES (INCLUDING LOSS OF PROFITS) OF ANY KIND. Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH reserves the right to make any changes according to technological progress or further developments. It is the customer 9s responsibility and obligation to carefully inspect and test any incoming goods. Performance of the product(s) described herein should be verib ed by testing and carried out only by qualib ed experts. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to carry out and arrange for any such testing. Reference to trade names used by other companies is neither a recommendation, nor an endorsement of any product and does not imply that similar products could not be used. (Status: February, 2008)

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