XMODS EVO MOSFET UPGRADE Installation Guide

Mustang " F150 " Hummer H2 Whilst the pictures in this tutorial are from the XMOD EVO racer chassis, they steps are exactly the same for the Truck chassis as well.<br><br> This upgrade will not work on the original XMODS. For MOSFET upgrades to the original XMODS see here . PROCESS: Remove chassis cover Remove stock MOSFETS.<br><br> Install upgraded MOSFETS. Replace cover & test your installation. METHOD: First thing to do is to remove the chassis cover from the xmod.<br><br> Before removing the screws you must take out the RX crystal and the antenna then you can remove the screws as shown below. The locations are outlined in red. Once this is done you will have easy access to the XMOD PCB.<br><br> Shown below, circled in red are the stock MOSFETS you are going to remove. There are many different ways you can remove the stock MOSFETS. I just use a hobby knife or similar and cut through the pins where they leave the black ceramic package.<br><br> With all the pins cut the black package just falls off. You can also use a soldering iron to melt the solder joints and pry the MOSFETS off but I don 9t recommend this. TOO MUCH HEAT ON THE SOLDER PADS WILL MAKE THEM LIFT OFF THE PCB AND BREAK!!!<br><br> Remember that! I can 9t stress this strongly enough! Now that the stock MOSFETS have been removed, you need to clean up the solder pads on the PCB to make it easier to install the new MOSFETS.<br><br> In the picture shown below us see where the leftovers of the little metal clegs d: of the MOSFETS are still there. Using a soldering iron, clean up the solder pads and remove the leftover MOSFET clegs d. Once done you should have a clean set of pads that are nice and flat as shown below.<br><br> NOW THE IMPORTANT PART! You need to be very careful as to which MOSFET you put where. Unlike the original XMODS, the EVO XMOD MOSFETS are two different IC 9s.<br><br> " IRF7329 " IRF9910 You will have to read the label on the MOSFET to tell which one is which. Look at the bottom line on the MOSFET package; it will have F7329 or F9910 . These numbers match up to what you see in the picture below.<br><br> Also, please note the orientation of the MOSFETS, there 9s a small DOT that indicates pin 1 on the MOSFET. Line it up as shown in the picture below. The MOSFET number and the pin 1 location are VERY IMPORTANT.<br><br> Ensure this step is done correctly! I use a bit of thick glue or putty/tack to hold the MOSFET in place whilst soldering. You will want something to hold the MOSFET in place, soldering is very tricky otherwise.<br><br> Make sure you do not short any of the pins together on the MOSFETS when soldering them. It 9s just good practice to be safe. Shown in the picture below is an example of a tidy solder job.<br><br> Here 9s a picture of the other side of the MOSFETS (facing the motor tabs) and what it should look like. You may also notice in the previous two pictures that the IRF7329 MOSFETS are in a 2x stack This is just an example, you can elect to stay with the 1x1 MOSFET replacement you 9ve done or move on to doing a 2x2 stack. You can do a 2x2 stack of these MOSFETS to get more power out of the motor and this is what I recommend.<br><br> You can also go higher, a 2x3 stack has been done, involving a total of 6 MOSFETS and it works fine. To go higher than a 1x1 stack you need to bend the MOSFET pins to it 9s easier to solder them on top of the other MOSFET layer. Normally, the MOSFET looks like this.<br><br> Using a set of long nose pliers, bend the pins so they face directly downwards. See the picture below as an example. Now you can stack the MOSFET on top of the other one and solder it on.<br><br> NOTE: you can only stack the same type of MOSFET on top of each other. So the IRF7329 only goes on top of the IRF7329. This is the same for the other MOSFET used, the IRF9910.<br><br> Make sure you follow the same layout of pin 1 and the DOT on the MOSFET package as well. Here are some pictures of what a 2x2 stack of MOSFETS should look like once completed. Now that you 9ve completed the MOSFET install it 9s time to test!<br><br> Without putting the cover back on, attach the motor back on to the connectors and put the batteries in the chassis. Also, plug the RX crystal back in. Turn your transmitter on FIRST.<br><br> Then turn the EVO chassis on. You should notice that the motor will respond as normal. If you don 9t get a response you should check the soldering on the MOSFETS.<br><br> Make sure all the connections are clean and not shorting between pins. It 9s not that tricky an installation and this guide shows each step quite clearly. The final set of steps are to now modify the chassis cover to accommodate the new set of MOSFETS.<br><br> You only have to do this if you have done a 2x2 stack or higher. Cut out the area shown below with a hobby knife or something similar. Once that is done, re-attached the cover back onto the chassis, you should find it fits with no issues to the MOSFETS.<br><br> The clearance of the MSOFETS versus the power lugs for the motor shows that you could easily put another set of MOSFETS on top to make a 2x3 stack in the end. The picture shown below gives a good indicator of what it 9s like. All Done!<br><br> You have now completed the EVO MOSFET upgrade. You will notice the following now: 1) You will have more cpunch d off the mark when accelerating. 2) You car should come out of corners faster with the increase acceleration.<br><br> 3) You can run hot motors now without the MOSFETS getting hot. You want the MOSFETS to stay cool, the hotter they get the worse they perform. 4) You can run a lithium supply without the need to worry about the MOSFETS, running a higher powered supply like lithium 9s push the MOSFETS even further.<br><br> Stock MOSFETS and hot motors with a lithium supply will run very hot and can blow the stock MOSFETS. This upgrade will ensure against it Now go enjoy your new EVO! Cheers, ph2t.<br><br> web: www.woahnelly.com email: ph2t@netspace.net.au msn: ph2t@prahanpianos.com

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