Audi TT Glove Box Repair Broken latches, not staying shut, or not opening. The TT glove box has a few issues that are annoying and costly at the dealership. This guide can solve the problems with a short bit of your time, and about $10.
Latch Repair To repair your glove box latch all you may need is one set screw from a hardware store, and a matching thread tap. For about $.30 you can buy a stainless steel 8-32 x 5/16 d set screw. If the pins that keep your glove box shut do not spring back out on their own, you may need a couple pieces of special hardware.
I used radio control car parts available from most hobby stores. You will need a pack of 4-40 x 3/8 d socket head cap screws that have a hole drilled in them (Team Associated part #6929) and lock nuts (Team Associated part #4449). Start by opening the glove box and removing the 8 T-25 screws inside the door.
Once you have removed the screws, gently pull the fuzzy glove box interior toward you separating it from the exterior. Allow it to close to keep it out of the way. Next, remove the ... more. less.
7 T-25 cap screws on the inside of the glove box door.<br><br> You can now remove the upper door of the glove box. Figure 1: Parts you will need Figure 2 (left): Glove box interior; left Figure 3 (right): Glove box interior; right Figure 4 (left): Glove box door; left Figure 5 (right): Glove box door; right Once you have the upper glove box section off, you will need to remove the remainder of the lower, broken nub. Using a 1/8 d drill bit, carefully drill a hole where the nub used to be.<br><br> I aligned the curve of the drill bit along the back curved part of the nub. Drill slowly as there is not a lot of plastic to spare. Also make sure you hold the drill perpendicular to the plastic.<br><br> This step is critical to the integrity of the repair. You will then need to tap the hole using an 8-32 tap. Again, take care that you do not ruin the threads.<br><br> Figure 6: Tapped hole in place of the broken nub Make sure the spring is on the back on the lever. You can now replace it on the top nub. Carefully install the 8-32 x 5/16 set screw.<br><br> Screw it in until it is flush and check to ensure it is in far enough to be tight without stressing the plastic. Once you are satisfied with its installation, add a drop of CA glue to keep it in place. I use a thin, fast setting CA as it will wick onto the threads.<br><br> Your lever is now ready to be re-installed. You should now inspect the action of the glove box closing pins. Check that the 2 springs that hold them out are attached at both ends.<br><br> Also, check that they both move the same distance ie they should both retract flush. If they do not the glove box may close and not open and will subject the lever to additional stress. If you find problems with the pins, proceed below before re-installing the lever assembly.<br><br> Figure 7: Lever replaced Figure 8: Lever installed with set screw Glove box pin repair I was lucky enough to have both spring tabs broken off the glove box interior panel. Both were intact on the pins themselves and seem to be much stronger. This prevents the pins from pushing back out to latch the glove box.<br><br> The left side tab had disintegrated while the right had a small crack that kept the spring from being retained. Start by removing the remainder of the tabs. I used an Exacto knife because they flex allowing you to completely remove the tab.<br><br> For the remainder of the process I will illustrate on the right side, but the left will just be a mirror of the process. You can see the tab removed in Figure 11. Again, using the 1/8 d drill bit rill a hole just above the tab perpendicular to the broken one allowing enough room for the head on the cap screw.<br><br> Figure 9 (left): Spring tab; left Figure 10 (right): Spring tab; right Figure 11: Tab removed on right side Figure 12: Hole in place of broken tab Insert 1 of the 4-40 cap screws in each hole and screw it in until there is a half of a thread showing with the 4-40 lock nut secured. The hole should be aligned parallel to the remaining tab to allow the spring to be attached ( see figure 14 ). Attach one end of the spring into the hole in the cap screw ( see figure 14 ).<br><br> Using the back of the Exacto blade or a small screwdriver pull the spring and hook it onto the tab on the pin. At this point you should the action of the pins ie they should both retract flush. If they do not, continue on to the section below.<br><br> If they do, you are now ready to re-install the lever assembly (if repaired). To re-assemble the glove box simply reverse procedure of the steps to disassemble listed above. Pin Adjustments If the latch pins on the glove box to not throw the same distance (ie both retract flush) simply remove the center gear and adjust either pin on tooth at a time and re-install the center gear.<br><br> Test and re-adjust until both pins retract flush. Door bouncing open If all the components of the glove box latching mechanism are properly working the door should latch and not bounce open. If you face this problem, you will need to adjust the glove box door.<br><br> Start by removing the fuzzy glove box interior as detailed above. Now locate the 2 hinges along the bottom of the glove box door. Using a T-25 loosen the 4 screws just a bit.<br><br> For mine, I had to pull the door out (towards me with it down). Tighten 1 screw on each side. Re-attach the the interior with 1 screw.<br><br> Test the door by closing it and gently pulling down on the center of the box. The lever should also have tension and operate the pins. If your adjustments worked, remove the screw from the interior, tighten all 4 screws in the hinges.<br><br> Re-assemble the outer and inner glove box and re-install all interior screws. Test once again. Congratulations!<br><br> If you have fixed your glove box using any of these steps you should pat yourself on the back! You should now take the money you were going to spend on buying a new box and having it installed and take your hunny on a weekend getaway, or purchase performance parts! Enjoy your TT!<br><br> Written by: James Harnden Please pass it on! Figure 13: Proper depth of 4-40 cap screw Figure 14: Spring replaced